reface a kitchen cabinet with a plastic laminate you will need:
1) A laminate trimmer (small router - an offset router is best) to trim
laminate after it is applied.
2) A solid carbide 1/4" shank laminate trimmer bit. A 1" 2-fluke
bit. A 45 degree bevel bit with guide bearing for inside cabinet
after laminating the stiles and rails.
3) A good contact adhesive (recommend Hybond 80F)to apply the laminate.
fine textured oil paint roller to apply the glue.
3) A pair of tin snips to trim strips of laminate to length as you apply
them. (Or a paper cutter.)
4) An all-purpose file (one side fine, the other medium)to finish edges.
5) A table saw to cut side (end) caps and rip stile and rail strips of
laminate from a 4X8 sheet.
6) A block of wood about 2"X4" to rub/press down the laminate after you
apply it. (Or J-roller)
7) A 2' X 8' glue board of 1/4" hard board to glue strips and caps on
8) 1 sheet of 80 grit sand paper.
9) Paint thinner (mineral spirits) for glue clean up.
10)An organic vapor face mask and rubber gloves.
11)Vertical grade laminate.
1) Remove the doors (with hinges) and drawers.
2) Prep the cabinets.
a) Route the scribes off the exposed ends of the cabinets with the 1"
2-fluke straight bit or fill in behind the scribe with 1/4" masonite to
the cabinets square and flush.
B) Lightly sand the sides, stiles and rails.
2) Cut end caps for the ends of the cabinet boxes 1" larger than needed.
Cut stile and rail strips 1/4" larger than needed.
3) Hold up each end cap at its location and mark a line on them holding
pencil against the wall and then cutting along the line with the tin
to scribe the end cap to the wall. You may have to do this several
until the cap fits perfectly to the wall (and ceiling).
4) Lay the glue board on the counter top and glue up the end caps.
glue up the sides of the cabinets using a scrap piece of laminate to
the wall as you apply the glue. Wait for both to dry until the
hair on the
back of your hand won't stick to the glue.
USE PLENTY OF
5) Apply the end caps in
their respective locations. If you mess up and
stick it before it's in position, use a long carving knife to carefully
scrape along the back of the laminate to free it. You may lose the
by breaking it. So practice putting up the end caps before you
up. If you mess up, just chip or peel the laminate off, cut
another end cap
and do it again later after the rest of the caps have been applied.
6) Route of the excess overhanging laminate along the cabinet edges with
your laminate trimmer bit.
IMPORTANT! HOLD THAT
ROUTER PERFECTLY FLAT
AGAINST THE BOX! (You may
want to practice laminating a board first.) Your
router will only get so close to the wall so you will have a piece that
have to be removed with the tin snips (I like to use a set of dikes) and
carefully file the laminate flush with the cabinet edge.
HOLD THAT FILE
7) Clean up the mess. You
don't want router filings in the glue on your
next step. (Actually you should do this after each step above,
too, if it's
8) Lay out your stile and rail strips on the glue board. Glue up
cabinet fronts and the strips with the roller and let them begin to dry.
You should be able to start applying within 5-10 minutes.
9) Apply the strips on each section of cabinets in this order.
first, then along the top rail of cabinet (If it's against a ceiling or
counter top, scribe the strip to fit), then apply along the bottom rail,
last the vertical stiles between the top and bottom rails using a pencil
mark them and cutting them to length with the tin snips or a paper
Rub down the laminate with the block of wood. (Be careful along edges,
can break the laminate easily until it is routed.)
10) Route off the excess laminate on the stiles and rails with the
11) Carefully file around the edges of the cabinet to remove any sharp
or left over lips.
12) Route out the cabinet door and drawer openings with the 45 degree
bit and guide bearing. Only remove about an 1/8" or less of the wood
NOTE: IF YOU ARE GOING
TO USE HIDDEN HINGES, DON'T 45 DEGREE
ROUTE THE HINGE SIDE OF THE OPENING, JUST LIGHTLY FILE OFF THE SHARP
13) Remove any excess glue with
a cloth and mineral spirits (paint thinner)
THINNER. WEAR YOUR RUBBER GLOVES TO PROTECT YOUR SKIN.
14) Prep your drawer boxes by
cutting off the overhang of the drawer front.
15) Hang your new doors.
16) Install the new drawer fronts to line up with the doors.
There is an much easier way. Use self-adhesive RTF laminate veneer
order RTF doors to match. See
How to reface your kitchen with self-adhesive veneers.